Logo

Welcome to Mama Knows

Login or Join Us to meet new friends, find out what's going on, and connect with other Mothers on Mama Knows!


Sign Up Now

Registering for Mama Knows is easy. Just fill in the fields on the registration page and we'll get a new account set up for you in no time.

Forgot Your Password?

A new password will be e-mailed to you.

Member Login

Top 10 Tips to Get Your Garden Ready for Winter

September 20, 2010 in Gardening by Hanna Trafford

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Take a moment to Rate and Review:
Rating: 1.0/10 (1 vote cast)

Take some time this fall to tuck your garden in for the winter and you will be helping your plants to stay strong and healthy, eager to start fresh next spring.

Here are the top 10 tips on what to do:

1.      All Garden Plants: Continue watering during dry spells in the fall to help roots store energy for winter, but stop fertilizing after midsummer to discourage new growth that might suffer winter damage. Any weeding done now means less weeding in the spring.

2.      Lawn: When grass stops growing (around mid to late October), feed it high nitrogen fertilizer. Nitrogen is the first number in three part formula you will see on fertilizer bag description. This will increase root growth and gets grass off to a green start next spring. Make the year’s last mow shorter than normal – about 2 inches to discourage winter fungal growth.

3.      Newly Planted Evergreen Shrubs: Insert sturdy wooden stakes in the ground around the shrub and attach burlap with staples to create a screen. Place stakes far enough away so that burlap won’t touch foliage. The burlap will shade foliage from winter sun and protect it from the drying effects of wind.

4.      Perennials: No need to cut down all dead stems and seed heads. These provide shelter and food for birds. But – if plants were infected by diseases or insects during the summer, cut them down to about 3 inches above ground. This will discourage diseases and pests from overwintering and resuming their destruction next season.

5.      Newly Planted Perennials: When the ground begins to freeze and plants are dormant, lay a 2 inch layer of shredded leaves over crowns. Late winter’s alternate freezing-thawing cycle can heave the perennials which haven’t had the time to grow strong root system, out of the ground.

6.      Tall, Narrow Junipers and Cedars: wrap jute twine – gently, not tightly – around and through the shrub from bottom to top to keep branches from splaying our and breaking under heavy snow.

7.   Broad-leaved Evergreens: Spray with and antidesiccant in late fall, when daytime temperatures are just above freezing to protect foliage from burning in winter’s strong winds and sun.

8.      Climbing Roses: After leaves fall, tie the long canes (branches) to a fence or trellis to prevent them from whipping around in the wind.

9.      Tender Roses: When the top few inches of ground freeze, mound weed-free topsoil or coarsely shredded leaves over the bottom 12 inches of the plant. Next, apply about 2-3 inches of wood chips, shredded leaves or small evergreen branches over the root zone.

10.   Container Plants: Compost plant that won’t be overwintered indoors, remove potting soil and store empty containers upside down in a sheltered area or indoors to prevent frost damage.

Hope you have found this information helpful, please send in your comments, suggestions and experiences – your input is always welcomed!

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: +1 (from 1 vote)

Getting the Weeds Out of Your Garden

June 22, 2010 in Gardening by Hanna Trafford

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Take a moment to Rate and Review:
Rating: 0.0/10 (0 votes cast)

Did you ever track the number of hours you spend keeping your flower beds free of weeds? I don’t even bother because tracking my time doing this task could easily discourage anyone from having a garden! What is really important here is to understand weeds  – yes – actually understand those pesky things! That will allow you to win over them and give you more time ot enjoy your beautifully groomed garden.

Understanding the Weeds:

  • Keep in mind that every square inch of your garden has weeds in it – but only those in the top inch or two of soil get enough light to trigger germination. If you decide thsat you want to remove weeds by digging and cultivating, you may actually be making the problem wore by exposing dormant seeds to where they can grow. Do dig only when you have to, plant what you need to and immediately cover unplanted soil with mulch. In your lawn, the best way is to sever roots with a sharp knife – that will take way their food source. It is better then digging them out.
  • Mulch, Mulch,Mulch – if you do that, you will be keeping weeds away from light. Organic mulches in particular can actually host crickets and carabid beetles and they love easting away thousands of seeds. Some light will pass through the mulch and it is important to replenish the mulch as needed to keep it at least 2 inches deep.
  • Weed your garden when weeding is good – this goes by the old saying: “Pull when wet, hoe when dry”. That simply traslates to putting your gloves on after a nice rain and attacking your weeds. Another helpful tool is an old kitchen fork – that will help you pull out the weeds easily. If you try to do this in dry conditions, all you will be doing is breaking the weeds above their roots and wasting yiour time.
  • Deadhead as many weeds as you can and fast! When you can’t completely remove the weeds, take off their blooms before they go into seed. Cutting back the tops of perennial weeds, such as bindweed will force them to use up their energy abd food reserves to supply roots and that will limit their spreading.
  • Filling the gaps between plants in your flower beds will go a long way to having a weeds free garden. When planting, I usually reduce the recommended spacing by at least 25% and keep an eye on weeds sprouting out until plants have a chance to fill in the spaces.
  • Water the plants that need water and not the weeds. Putting soaker hoses beneath the mulch effectively irrigates the plants, while leaving nearby weeds thirsty. DOin this will reduce weed germination by at least 50%. The one thing you will need to watch out are deeply rooted perennial weeds – especaiily in the areas you are keeping moist – and they can take off really fast on you!
  • Quite a few gardeners and also scientists believe that enriching your soil with organic matter is extremely helpful For some reason – weed seeds do not germinate as quickly in organically infused gardens – for example one that keep getting regular additions of compost.

Hope this was helpful to you and I will very much appreciate any other suggestions and tips you may have to share!

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: +1 (from 1 vote)

Getting Rid of Bugs in Your Garden

June 16, 2010 in Featured Articles by Hanna Trafford

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Take a moment to Rate and Review:
Rating: 10.0/10 (2 votes cast)

We all know that one of the biggest sources of environmental pollution comes from the use of pesticides. There are many natural remedies that you can apply to get rid of and control bad bugs and pests in your garden – without using toxic chemicals. And the good news is that many of these remedies are already in your kitchen!

Knowing which are the bad bugs in your garden is a good start and here are some tips that will help you control them and get rid of them:

  • One of the best ways to control bugs is to do your best to prevent them.Keep everything clean and sealed – stopping everything before it starts.
  • Keeping areas clean and free of debris, garbage and especially food particles will prevent pests and bugs being attracted to your area.
  • Seal cracks, make sure you have good screens in your windows and doors and if necessary, caulk around all openings to your home.
  • Use essential oil – many bugs hate strong odours and will generally stay away from natural essential oils. That means soaking cotton balls in citrus oils like lemon or orange and placing them around your home. You can also use peppermint, mint, cloves, citronella, eucalyptus and tea tree oils.
  • Sprinkle garlic and pepper powders around the edge of your home – bugs avoid garlic and hate pepper. It is also a good idea to sprinkle garlic and pepper powders around window sills, around plants and patio to keep the bugs away. Ants especially will not cross powder lines and you can sprinkle powder mixes in cracks and crevices where bugs might hide. Another effective remedy in repelling pests and bugs are hot pepper sauces.
  • Good old-fashioned soap is a very effective and natural way to keep bugs off your plants. All natural soaps are an excellent choice for your garden. Mix 3 tablespoons per gallon of water and spray directly on the plants – this will get rid of most bugs. Be careful to not overspray your plants and do not use it on cabbage, lettuce, cucumbers and melons.
  • You can also consider traps – especially if you have a stubborn pest problem and before you start thinking about using chemicals. There are glue boards available on the market for everything from fleas to ants and larger pests like mice and rats.
  • Do your best to get beneficial bugs, animals and plants. Lady bugs are actually good because they get rid of some of the bad bugs – but too many lady bugs can also create a problem.
  • Birds, frogs and toads eat many insects and are great for keeping mosquitos under control. Plant flowers like Chrysanthemums and calendula – they deter bug infestation and chives and catnip will keep Japanese beetles from destroying your plants.

Hope this information was helpful to you – please send in your comments, suggestions and experiences – your input is always welcomed!

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: +2 (from 2 votes)

How To Build Your Garden Pond

May 28, 2010 in Gardening by Hanna Trafford

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Take a moment to Rate and Review:
Rating: 9.0/10 (1 vote cast)

If you have space in your garden, plus the desire to build and maintain a garden pond, definitely consider taking the task on. Inground water pond is an entire ecosystem of its own and water feature transforms any garden into a serene retreat.

Most garden centres and large stores offer beautiful, relatively inexpensive and innovative products that will make building your pond easy.

Before you set out to purchase a build-yourself pond kit, you will need to do a bit of planning first:

Planning Your Pond:

1. Location: Select your location based on how you plan to use your pond – whether you want to be able to see it form your kitchen window or create a setting for outdoor entertaining, etc. Avoid placing your pond under or close to trees that will drop leaves or needles – that would add additional maintenance to your pond. Consider slope, soil,sun, shade, wind and utility lines when planning the location.

2. Slope: Place the pond on a flat area above the lowest spot on the site to avoid overflow by rainwater, causing muddy waters and possibly washing away plants and fish.

3. Soil: Clay soil, although difficult to excavate, hold its shape and flexible liners will conform to whatever configuration you dig out. Create a series of internal ledges that will provide bases for large boulders to gradually incline upward to the pond margins and for marginal plants to be placed in pots and in the pond.

4. Sun,Shade and Wind: Position your pond where your plants will get at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. Wind can speed up evaporation and damage plants and shrubs. You can consider windscreens in windy spots.

5. Utilities: Call before you dig to avoid installing over gas, electrical or sewer lines. The closer the pond is to electrical outlets for fountains, lights and a pump, the less expensive it will be to run lines to it. Running a water line is only necessary if you can’t reach the pond with a garden hose to top up the water levels.

Plant Tips:

Plants can make or break the function of an ecosystem. They will provide valuable biological filtration by removing nitrogen, ammonia, nitrates and other nutrients from the water that algae would otherwise feed on. Submerged and marginal plants provide food, shade and protection for fish and other wildlife that live in and around your pond. Some blooming plants will attract beneficial birds, insects,butterflies,frogs and others to your watery paradise. Floating level plants, such as water lilies will shade water surface and absorb dissolved nutrients that contribute to algae proliferation.

1. Submerged Plants: Sometimes referred to as oxygenators, these aquatic plants grow totally submerged underwater. they liberate oxygen that clears water, prevents growth of algae and allows fish to breathe. Good ones are: parrot feather, foxtail and water violet.

2. Floating – Leaved Plants: Floaters drift on the water surface, providing shade to lower water temperatures and protection for fish. The absorb dissolved nutrients that encourage growth of algae and their roots receive and protect fish eggs. The include: water lily, free-floating fairy moss and water hyacinth.

3. Marginal Plants: Marginals are shallow water or bog plants that sit on ledges built along the edge of the pond. Their main function is decorative, but they also provide necessary shade. They include winter hardy arrowhead, yellow water iris and cattail as well as tropical, nonhardy taro, canna and papyrus.

Resources:

1. Pumps and Filters: A pond filter/pump system is the single most important element of any pond. Not only does it function as a water clarifier, but it is also the heart of the fish’s health. Always install a system slightly larger than needed to allow for fish growth.

2. Liners: The liner is one of the most expensive and important items you will purchase. Ethylene propylene diene monometer (EPDM) rubber 45mil is fish-safe and it is what most professionals recommend. Before installing the liner make sure to eliminate all small stones and sticks. All liners require installation of an underlay, a cushion of material between the liner and the soil that helps prevent punctures and tears. The minimum depth of a pond should be about 18 inches and you will need to allow 6 – 12 inches for deep shelves for plants. Use the following formula to determine the size of your liner:

Length of the liner = length of the pond, plus 2 x depth plus 2 feet.

Width of the liner = width of the pond plus 2 x depth plus 2 feet.

3. Deterring Pond Predators: Edge your pond with rocks or flagstones, arranging them to hang out over the water 6 – 8 inches. Place rocks high enough from the water surface so that predators can’t scoop out fish. Another solution is to place predator netting over the pond, or motion=senser sprinklers to spray the predator when it approaches.

Hope this will be helpful to you and please send in your comments, suggestions and experiences. Your input is always very welcomed and much appreciated.

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: +2 (from 2 votes)

How to Build a Hanging Basket

May 21, 2010 in Gardening by Hanna Trafford

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Take a moment to Rate and Review:
Rating: 0.0/10 (0 votes cast)

There is a lot you can do with hanging baskets to accent your home and your garden. There are a lot of hanging baskets readily available in the market, but there is also an advantage to making your own. No matter what you need your basket to do, making your own gives you an opportunity to create colour combinations that best suit your needs. A combination of trailing plants of the same variety with three or four colourful plants at the top will result in a rich and healthy looking hanging basket.

Here are simple. easy steps you can follow:

1. Choose the size of your hanging basket:

In this case – size does matter. The volume of the basket is directly related to the amount of water the basket can retain. If you select a basket that is too small, you will have to water it daily. Larger basket will also make columns or posts look more in scale with your house or landscape.

2. Insert a liner:

To fully cover basket, you will need to overlap two rectangular section of the liner. Remember to allow enough length of each piece to overlap the basket so that when you fill it with soil, you will still have piece that will spill over the edges. overlapping will also add the benefit of slowing water flow out of the bottom.

3. Build a base layer of potting soil:

Use good quality potting soil and press it firmly against the bottom and sides of your basket. You need to do this so that you have a firm background to cut against when you make slits for the first row of plants. Keep the soil level about 4-6 inches above the bottom of your basket to complete this step.

4. Add water reservoir:

Doing this will help aeration and watering – and all you will need is a piece of slotted drainpipe, about 8-10 inches long. Adjust the drainpipe, so taht you have it about 2-3 inches above the final soil level – that will prevent it from filling with soil. You will also want to make sure that the drainpipe doesn’t end up sitting on the bottom of your basket – that would result in water simply draining right out.

5. Start planting:

Frist – trim your liner and using a sharp object, make small incisions just above the current soil level. Carefully poke through the root-balls of the plants from the outside. Small plugs or cell pack-size annuals work the best here, since they minimize the since of openings in your liner. If you make larger hole, you will have a problem with soil spilling out and young plants washing out during watering.

6. Continue planting to the top:

Keep adding layers of potting soil, cutting slits and inserting rows of plants. Using staggered pattern work the best – do this until you readch top of the basket. You can top off your basket with some upright annuals or even some small grasses.

Final step:

Trim the liner, and give your basket a good soaking

Get creative, mix colour and types of plants and enjoy the results! And please send in your comments, suggestions and experiences – your input is always welcomed and much appreciated!


VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: 0 (from 0 votes)

Grow An Easy Garden

May 16, 2010 in Gardening by Hanna Trafford

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Take a moment to Rate and Review:
Rating: 0.0/10 (0 votes cast)

31garden-600.jpg

Everyone wants to have a beautiful garden – place where you can relax and enjoy a few moments away from the time-pressed world. By choosing plants and following a few tips that are aimed at curtailing upkeep, you can have a beautiful garden and time left to enjoy it.

Easy Garden Tips:

Magical Mulch:

mulch.jpg

Cut your watering and weeding time with a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch (leaf mould, compost, shredded bark) applied over exposed soil. Mulch preserves moisture, suppresses weeds and adds nutrients.

Let Go of Grass:

Loosing lawn to other ground covers such as sweet woodruff, periwinkle or bugleweed, will not only cut mowing time but alos beautify shady spots where grass struggles to grow.

periwinkle.jpg sweet_woodruff05-2_400.jpg bugleweed-1.jpg

Send in the Shrubs:

A variety of spring, summer and fall-blooming shrubs provide colour throughout the year without the dividing, staking,deadheading and replanting perennicals and annuals. Try Japanese Spireas, Weigelas and Potentillas.

d288b4.jpg weigela-flower.jpg plantings_potentilla.jpg

Consolidate Containers:

mbbucket.jpg

Use fewer but larger containers, big containers overflowing with plants look great and need watering less often.

Healthy Plants are Happy Plants:

compost.jpg

Plants are better equipped to survive weather stresses, pests and diseases if they like where they are growing. When choosing a new plant, make sure that you can provide the right amount of sun, the type of soil it requires and the amount of water it needs. Otherwise, you will constantly be nursing sick plants.

Paint Pizzazz:

opt-pink-bench-garden-zinni.jpg

Paint a wooden bench bright colour – like fuchsia or coral – or set off a swath of ground cover with a bright object, such as unplanted urn. Adding colour to things you place into garden will give a lift to the overall picture!

These are just a few tips – but they are the very basic ones. Hope you enjoy applied them and will share your experiences and send in your comments and suggestions. Your input is always welcomed!

scan0003.jpg

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: 0 (from 0 votes)

All About Compost

May 13, 2010 in Gardening by Hanna Trafford

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Take a moment to Rate and Review:
Rating: 0.0/10 (0 votes cast)

I call compost: the garden gold and eco-paydirt. You can go and buy ready-made from your garden centre, or you can make your own. Making compost by recycling vegetable-based kitchen scraps and yard waste cuts down on garbage and more importantly – conditions and feed your garden soil. It’s easy to do and it will definitely make your garden better!

Here are some composting tips:

  • Turn the pile frequently and keep adding coarse, dry material – like straw and shredded leaves. This will prevent bad odours.
  • Compost that is too dry will break down slowly – you can avoid it by mixing in a few handfuls of soil and some moist kitchen scraps or coffee grounds. You will want to check weekly to make sure your compost is not too dry.
  • Here is a simple hand test for you: a handful of compost should feel like a wrung-out sponge.
  • If the pile of too mushy or soggy, add dry materials. You can add things like sawdust or even dryer lint. Keep the pile uncovered (unless it it raining heavily) and keep checking it weekly.
  • Create heat: a warm pile not only decomposes quickly, it will also kill weed seeds. the best way to add heat is to add high-nitrogen materials, such as kitchen scraps,fresh grass and grass clippings or manure (but not pet waste)
  • If you find that your compost pile is not decomposting, try this: Separate layers of fresh leaves or grass clippings by mixing in straw, hay (without seeds) of dry leaves. If large chunks are not breaking down, sift the pile through a screen or use a soil shredder. The resulting fine materials can be sued for a new compost heap.
  • For best results, compost pile should be at least one cubic metre.If yours is smaller, turn the heap more often or mix in more materials.
  • To keep pests away, do not ever add any meat to your compost – or fish, bones or fats. Cover food scraps with soil ot other carbon-rich materials and turn the pile weekly.

What is Compostable:

  • Autumn Leaves
  • Coffee Grounds
  • Egg Shells
  • Grass Clippings
  • Plants and Plant Trimmings
  • Shredded, ink free paper
  • Vegetable Scraps (chop up corn cobs and other large pieces)

What is Not Compostable:

  • Bones
  • Diseased Plant Materials
  • Grease
  • Invasive Plants or Weeds with Persistent Root System
  • Lawn Clippings that have been sprayed with chemicals
  • Meat
  • Pet Waste

Hope you have enjoyed this article and that it will help your gardenning efforts! Please share your experiences and send in your comments or suggestion – your participation is always welcomed!


VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: 0 (from 0 votes)

Spring Gardening Checklist

April 8, 2010 in Gardening by Hanna Trafford

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Take a moment to Rate and Review:
Rating: 0.0/10 (0 votes cast)

p_tulipkauf08262003If you are anything like me – and millions of others – you can’t wait to get out into your garden and start digging, cutting, pruning, planting and doing whatever needs to be done to make it best ever. Here I am sharing my To Do checklist with you – hope it will help you and motivate you!

Spring Gardening Checklist:

  • Start annuals, tomatoes and peppers from seeds indoors
  • Start your summer flowering bulbs like dahlias, cannas, etc. indoors by potting them and setting them up under lights until after the last frost date
  • In your garden, clean up your flower beds, picking up fallen branches, twigs, dead plants and other winter debris
  • Prune deciduous trees and shrubs – but not the  ones that flower of run sap in the spring
  • As soon as you can work the ground, you can plant hardy cool-weather plants like onions, cabbage, radishes, sweet peas and leeks.
  • You can also spray scale-infested trees and shrubs with dormant oil before their leaves show up.
  • Put slow-release fertilizer to flowering shrubs and vines – that includes clematis, roses and rhododendrons
  • And start pulling out weeds as soon as they appear in your garden
  • If you have hydrangea in your flower beds, cut it back all the way to the ground
  • Spread compost on beds and start adding kitchen scraps and yard waste to your compost bin to start a new batch of compost
  • Divide mature perennials and replants them into other places
  • Install a rain barrel to collect run offs from eavestroughs and to have water to use watering your plants
  • Don’t plant your tomato and pepper plants until soil temperature reaches 17C
  • To clean up spring-flowering perennials, cut them back once they finish flowering
  • It is a good idea to pinch back seed heads on plants like rhododendron and azaleas – it will leave the plants energy to grow better.
  • Fertilize daffodils, crocuses and tulips after they finish flowering – your bulbs will be stronger and will flower beautifully next spring.

Please add your comments, suggestions and tips – your input is as always very much appreciated!

scan0003

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: +1 (from 1 vote)

Tips to Get Your Garden Ready for Winter

November 19, 2009 in Gardening by Hanna Trafford

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Take a moment to Rate and Review:
Rating: 10.0/10 (1 vote cast)

mcknightwinterIf you read my story yesterday – the one about the now very popular Apple Cinnamon Muffins I treated myself with – you will already know that it was an absolutely beautiful morning in Ontario. After I had my muffin and coffee, I took a little walk into my garden. Can you believe I still have some beautiful blooms in there? So I took pictures you can look at and it also made me think that I should send your way a few tips ads to what I think is a good odea to remember to get done before the cold weather and snow arrive:

Here are my 10 Tips to Get Your Garden Ready for Winter:

  1. This is actually a great time to transplant small tree and shrubs if you need to. It is fine to do it when the leaves turned colour and started to fall.
  2. It is also a good time to plant new trees and shrubs – there is still time before the ground freezes deep enough to do manage to the roots.
  3. You will want to put plastic or wire mesh around new trees or shrubs to protect them from hungry animals – like rabbits or mice. When you do that, make the protective covers high enough so that it reaches above the snow line.
  4. As far as perennials go – it is up to you whether or not you cut back the dying foliage. I prefer to leave it, since I think it offers protection to new growths in early spring when you can see unexpected frost or spring snow falls that could do some damage. The other things that it does is feed hungry birds. But – some people prefer to have their garden all nice and clean in the spring – so it is your call!
  5. The one things you don’t want to do is cut roses back before the winter – leave them the way they are, just hill over the root system to prevent frost damage. In the spring, keep checking where new growth is and cut parts of the plant that have been damaged over the winter.
  6. You will also need to make sure that your shrubs and trees have a good storage of water . That means watering them until the ground freezes. This is especially important for newly planted ones – since evergreens don’t lose their “leaves”, they continue to give off water vapours through the winter months.
  7. It is a good idea to do “once over” on your flowerbeds – pulling out all the weeds. Make sure you don’t throw them into your composter – you would have them sprouting again when you use the compost next spring! You can pull out all plant remains and materials from your vegetable garden and put those into your composter.
  8. If you have leaves you don’t know what to do with, consider shredding them and using them for mulch on your flower beds. You can add some to your composter as well – it will take a season or so until they make compost, but it will be the best organic treat for your garden soil! To shred the leaves, you can just run a lawnmover over them to break them up – they will compost better.
  9. Speaking of leaves – you will want to rake them off your lawn for sure. If you don’t, they will smother your grass.
  10. And speaking of grass – not only is this the perfect time to put some winter fertilizer on. It is also time to do the final cutting. If you leave the grass long, it will likely cause some low-temperature fungi.

Hope you enjoyed reading this and as mentioned at the beginning of this article – here are few pictures I took yesterday and of course – few comments as well:

This gorgeous mum is adoring the entrance to my garden - right at the start of stone garden path. I got this plant for my birthday last April and just stuck it into the ground when it finished blooming indoors.

This gorgeous mum is adoring the entrance to my garden - right at the start of stone garden path. I got this plant for my birthday last April and just stuck it into the ground when it finished blooming indoors.

Yes - it is a rose in full bloom! And about 5 new buds that will more than likely not have enough warmth to open this year :-(. This rosebush is in the front my our house and has been there for about 12 years, coming back beatifully each year.y

Yes - it is a rose in full bloom! And about 5 new buds that will more than likely not have enough warmth to open this year :-( . This rosebush is in the front my our house and has been there for about 12 years, coming back beatifully each year.

This huge planter with fall mum and ornamental grass is also in front of our house - almost finished blooming but still being a great decoration!

This huge planter with fall mum and ornamental grass is also in front of our house - almost finished blooming but still being a great decoration!

This little shrub has beautiful burgundy leaves all your round and this is the first year it showed some berries after the leaves fell off. It give a great contrast colour to my flower bed and I am sure it will look great when snow covers the ground!

This little shrub has beautiful burgundy leaves all your round and this is the first year it showed some berries after the leaves fell off. It give a great contrast colour to my flower bed and I am sure it will look great when snow covers the ground!

This gorgeous organcew bloom is adoring climber rose I have just planted last year - it will make for a great picture if it last til the snow fall!Stay tuned....

This gorgeous organcew bloom is adoring climber rose I have just planted last year - it will make for a great picture if it last til the snow fall!Stay tuned....

This is a shocker for me - white clematis blooming in November after we already had some frost! I am loving it becuase it is right next to my patio doors and I get to see it every day! Please pretty flower - stay awhile!

This is a shocker for me - white clematis blooming in November after we already had some frost! I am loving it becuase it is right next to my patio doors and I get to see it every day! Please pretty flower - stay awhile!

I will be looking forward to your comments, suggestions and experiences – your input is always very much appreciated!

scan000312

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: 0 (from 0 votes)

How to Get Rid of Ladybugs

October 22, 2009 in Household Hints by Hanna Trafford

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Take a moment to Rate and Review:
Rating: 5.0/10 (2 votes cast)
Asian Lady Beetle

Asian Lady Beetle

Native Ladybug

Native Ladybug

They are congregating in a big way – some people report hundreds of these little insects gathering on the outside of their houses, getting inside every chance they have.

But – are they the “real” ladybugs? Probably not – that is- if you can tell the difference. And not that it matters much anyway – nobody wants armies of these inside the house.

If you have been invaded by them, chances are that you are dealing with the Asian Lady Beetle and not the native lady bug. The difference is subtle – the Asian Lady Beetle is orange to black in colour and has a whole bunch of dots, as many as 19 of them.

If you are wondering where they came from, you can sort of blame the government for that. These insects were imported here at the beginning of the 20th century to help with controlling tree-killing aphids. They feed on them – so they are the good guys! But granted – they are not so good when they show up in large groups inside of your house!

What to do?

First – check out your screen doors, window screen and screened in porches. They need to be properly sealed, since the most common way for these insects to get into your house are cracks in screen doors or doors that don’t fit properly. You can fix that easily and inexpensively by using weather stripping or by replacing torn screens.

Next – check out door frames, window frames and your siding. Some of the insects are stubborn enough to try to get into the house through your siding! You may want to check seals around air vents and piping are good.

So – essentially what you are trying to do is to prevent the migration of Asian lady Beetles into your house. You can also do that by spraying pesticide to the outside walls of your house, your siding, eaves, attic vents, roof overhangs, doors and windows. I would say you pretty much need to do that if the problem gets really bad and you have swarms nesting on the outside of your home.

I heard of a neat little trick to get rid of them. Haven’t tried it myself, but it sounds easy and makes a great sense:

What you do is take the hose to your vacuum cleaner and stick nylon down it, then seal the nylon to the hose with a rubber band. What you have created here is a filter on the end of your hose. Then you just go around and vacuum the pests. They get trapped in the nylon, which you remove when you are done, tie it and throw it in the garbage. It does seem like the easiest and the least ecological destructive way!

Here is a diagram for it for you – just to make it clear:

How to Use Vacuum Cleaner Hose to get Rid of Ladybugs

How to Use Vacuum Cleaner Hose to get Rid of Ladybugs

And no – don’t do it if you have sentimental feelings towards Ladybugs – I am just giving you the information here! And as usual – I would love to get your comments and suggestions – your input is very much appreciated!

scan000318

VN:F [1.9.15_1155]
Rating: 0 (from 0 votes)
Real Time Analytics